Home in Hampi

I left the ashram with a happy heart again and right away met so many kind helpful people. From the ricshaw driver who helped me find the right bus to the woman who led me to my next bus. From a man who called to find out where my bus stop was for the overnight bus and then walked me there to Arun, who worked at the travel agency and kept me company for 4 hours while I waited. And finally the man on my bus who checked to make sure I found my seat OK, told me about our breaks and made sure I found the bathroom OK. It was such a heart warming night.

The overnight semi sleeper bus though left something to be desired. Not quite a bed but more reclined than a seat, it had a bad angle that had me sliding down in my seat with every bump and turn. I could hardly get comfortable and was so glad to have the seat beside me empty. The seat in front of me, when fully reclined, squished my legs against the leg rest I had raised. A little claustorphobic and not one bathroom break during the night! Thank goodness I miraculously didn't need the toilet! We drove through beautiful Mysore and finally arrived in Bangalore around 11 am. I planned on buying my overnight ticket right away and then seeing a bit of the city. I couldn't buy my ticket where I was so I fought with a bunch of rickshaw drivers before finally settling on a price to the main bus station. Here I found a whole street of travel agents. I chose one and bought my ticket to Hospet, a small town close to Hampi. I locked my bag to their waiting chairs and then set off to find wifi and food. After a turn around the block and finding nothing I decided to head to a nearby mall. I walked along the road and enjoyed the lovely smell of urine, and even was lucky enough to witness the source of said smell as a man peed right in front of me. I had been told to walk straight and down but all I saw was a highway ahead of me. Surely he couldn't have meant that I should walk on the side of the highway? After asking for directions, it turns out that I will be walking on the side of a highway, something like Glenmore near Chinook. Fun times. As I walked along I just thought of what my dad would say.....it wouldn't be pretty! I finally reached my destination and was met with the cool air of AC and marble floors. Sigh, and quiet. I took a walk around before finding a Booster Juice! It was expensive, for India, and had taxes which is something I haven't encountered shopping at street stands. But it was so worth it. I found the wifi but after shutting down, restarting and turning on and off and on the wifi, I couldn't connect. Grrrrr. For a couple of hours I browsed, I stopped for snacks and I people watched. Pretty soon I knew I was done with the mall so I headed for the exit. I decided to take a rickshaw back but they wouldn't give a reasonable price, of which I had been informed. So I started to walk. Eventually I found a guy who would meet my price and I got in to be met with ear splitting, mind jangling music. He had subs in the back of his rickshaw. I was in awe and shock but decided to enjoy the ride.....and being in the coolest rickshaw in India. Lol. I thought Bangalore was going to be this beautiful modern city but the small section I was in was just like any other. It might have even smelt worse. I spent my afternoon in an internet cafe and relaxing at the tour office where I'd purchased my ticket. The men working were very friendly and even recommended a delicious place for dinner. I was the only white person there, and a woman to boot! I ate the best masela dosa(large crepe like pancake with curried potatoes and dips) I've eaten so far! Soon it was time for my bus and I couldn't wait to sleep! I got on and got comfy, I was prepared with layers, but it wasn't too cold this time. Problem was......not one bathroom break! I had to ask the driver twice to stop. The first time he pulled into a "rest" stop and the second he told me to use the park nearby. When I refused he spent the next hour that I sat up front waiting for a toilet telling me that Indian women used open spaces and kept pointing to fields and saying "see Indian women go there". He finally stopped though, just as I was going to burst. Otherwise my ride was great! Sitting up front sure gave me a different view of things. A couple of times groups of people crowded the bus and I nervously thought about all my belongings. The driver gave the first group his dinner and the second time it happened, a man actually got on the bus but then saw me and got back off. I wonder what would have happened had I not been sitting there?

We finally pulled into Hospet and I shared a rickshaw with another traveller. We had to have had the most obnoxious driver out there. He argued the whole time about where to drop us off and the price. As we drove, I nervously watched as cows and pigs walked through piles of garbage and kids did their business right on the street. I thought Hampi was going to be so great but I was getting nervous. We finally pulled up to the river and I saw that it looked to be quiet and peaceful. School children bathed and played in the water of the river while getting ready for school. We paid 10 rupees and took a small boat across the river and searched for a place to stay. I walked back and forth along the main road before deciding to find the Guesthouse where my friend Alex was staying. Little did I know that it was the furthest away. As I saw it in the distance across a rice patty, I moaned. I was tired and I'd been walking around with my bag already for awhile. I'm glad I continued though because Goan Corner was amazing. The little straw thatched cottages were cute(and cheap) and the food was delicious. Right away the staff call you by name. I had a great breakfast with eggs, toast, fruit salad, fresh juice and tea in the morning sunshine.

I couldn't believe I was sitting there surrounded by such green and great big boulders. It didn't seem real. I explored the first day. It was hot but the scenery in every direction was so amazing I could spend a long time here. The next day a group of us rented a rickshaw to take us to a bunch of temples. Five of us crammed in with the driver; we had to get out and push up the hills. We saw the ruins of beautiful temples, ate ice cream and saw monkeys. We walked barefoot through one temple (yuk) which burned the bottoms of our feet but were able to watch monkeys playing. After several hours we were ready for home and set out on our way. The hostel was great but almost always without power during the day. We spent the evening in the beautiful restaurant/common room on pillows on the floor. The next day was our last so Alex and I headed to see the much anticipated monkey temple. We hired a guy on a motorcycle to drive us (sorry dad) and then had to walk 600 stairs to the top. My flip flop had melted oin the motorbike and Alex's broke on the way up. What a pair! And then after all that, there was 1 monkey at the temple. We were thoroughly bummed. We headed back to town and took it easy before our bus to Goa. I fell in love with Hampi. It's relaxed and full of stuff to do. And supremely beautiful. It is so green and full of wonderful plants that fill your senses. I would go back in a heartbeat.

Upwwrds and onwards though!