Walk to the beach

The Beach

What can I say about Koh Chang? It was exactly what I needed to do before my trip through South East Asia. A small island covered in hills and trees. I took the ferry to get there but had no bookings and no idea where to stay....not something I normally do. I saw another girl travelling alone and asked where she was staying. Lonely beach....the backpacker mecca. I got into the back of a pickup, their style of taxi, and went with her. Carolyn, from Ireland, was a gem. We chatted as the taxi sped around corners, up hills, and downhills while turning corners....I'm glad I couldn't see the road in front of us. We finally arrived and it was a quiet street filled with restaurants and tattoo parlours. Carolyn and I decided to share a room, it was much cheaper. I fell in love with the little village I was staying in. Very touristy but the people were so kind and friendly and I could find anything I needed. A western meal, falafel, Thai food, ice cream, or a bamboo tattoo! The sun was hot and intense and the first day I sat on the balcony of a restaurant/bar and read my book. The heat was nice, if a bit much, but I was relaxing! The beach was a bit far on a rocky path and up a steep wobbly plank to an overpass and through a forest....it was also nothing special. But I love the ocean and hearing the waves lap the shore was just what I wanted. That first night we went back to the bar that sat on stilts right into the ocean and had a delicious BBQ (my first official meal since the clear fluids diet) while watching a movie in the open night air. It was lovely. The next couple of days were spent reading, sweating, and eating. I spent only a couple of hours at the beach and that was enough to turn me a little pink. I wandered the town and enjoyed all the different foods. I moved rooms as Carolyn had a friend coming and found myself a little bungalow shack. During the day I could see the ground under my hut and at night I could see the lights shining under the uncovered eaves. My bathroom was an ensuite but had no roof and a bowl of water is what I used to flush the toilet. I didn't mind, not much time was spent in there but to sleep. It was a bit noisy at night being as it was closer to the bars but I managed to drown it out with music of my own.

I had heard all about bamboo tattoos and how they aren't supposed to hurt as much as the regular kind. I've wanted a new one for awhile and had my quote picked out. As I wandered the streets, seeing the tattoo shops, day after day I finally decided to go for it. I knew the tattoo gun hurt so maybe this could be a painless one, especially since I wanted it on my ribs. In I went and made my appointment. When it was time I was surprisingly calm......and it did hurt after all. Not as much as my ankle but there was a bit of pinching over the ribs. But I am happy I did it. My new tattoo is a reminder of how wonderful every day is....not only on my trip but every day, no matter how normal it may seem. And while I was getting it done a woman from France came in and I was able to help be the translator for her. It felt so good to speak French and be understood!

The next day I was up early to catch my bus to Phnom Penh in Cambodia. I was sad to leave the island but I'm now feeling better and I'm ready to start my travels again. I am definitely looking forward to more beach time though!

View from the toilet

My big souvenir

Bamboo tattoo.....the ultimate souvenir from my trip. I chose the quote "Something wonderful is going to happen today". It's definitely true of my trip but also important to remember that every day something wonderful can happen if you think it will and if you are positive.......

Koh Chang

Siam Aquarium

First stop: South East Asia

After possibly the worst flight of my life, I arrive in Bangkok. I am apprehensive, not knowing what to expect or how difficult this is going to be. I am not feeling well and don't know if I can tackle another difficult country. I am happily surprised to learn I don't need a visa and I have a painnfree entry through immigration.  I get on bus 1A from the airport and then get off at the skytrain which I take to my stop. I follow the directions but after 30 minutes of walking I find myself at the next skytrain station. I know this doesn't make sense so I turn around and start walking back. I finally find it, right where they said it would be.....but the street signs aren't as clear as I thought they were. My hostel is like a hotel but with dorm rooms and I am so excited when I see the foot thick mattress, the big comforter, and fluffy pillow. There is air conditioning (right next to my bed), plug ins and wifi. Things are looking up! I am not hungry nor am I feeling good but I haven't eaten much so I head down and order some Thai veggie rice. It is delicious. So different from Indian food where the flavour assaults your senses. Thai food is delicious and flavourful but understated and light. I head to bed that night and sleep straight through for 11 hours. This never happens to me and I am shocked that I didn't get up once. I'm feeling pretty weak and wobbly so I spend the day catching up on laundry and watching movies, I may even have had a nap. That night I'm sent to the pharmacy by daddy dearest as chances are I'm dehydrated and I'm feeling pretty neasous. The pharmicist's English isn't great and she wants to give me pepto, which I already have and it didn't help, or antacid, which is definitely not the illness I have. I buy electrolytes instead and walk back to the hostel. I haven't eaten much so I eat another Thai rice while drinking my delicious (eye roll) electrolytes. The next day I feel much better and I decide to get out of the hostel. I go to Siam Centre which is South East Asia's biggest shopping centre and start looking for walking sandals because flip flops just don't cut it. I am lost in this complex of 3 separate malls and decide to stop for lunch. I don't want to overdo it or eat too much grease so I order grilled chicken, green papaya salad and sticky rice. It's delicious, and just what I need. I am not having much luck and decide to go to the Siam Aquarium (biggest in south East Asia) in the basement of the shopping mall for a break. After the $30 entry fee I enter a world of water, fish, and other creatures. I love the ocean and all its wonders and for a couple of hours I am lost in the colour, sounds, shadows, and shapes. About three quarters through my stomach starts to make weird rumbling noises....not hunger sounds. I continue through and when I finally escape to the bright lights and sounds of shopping I begin my task of shoe searching. I try on several pairs; Merrell barefoots, Columbia, but nothing fits quite right. I am directed to yet another mall a block down the road where I find some Merrells that fit and are comfy. A whopping $150 or 3800 bhat later I exit into the night. My stomach is really making noises and I can't wait to relax after a busy day out. I'm still a bit weak and it's been quite an outing. I decide to eat something different and go to subway for dinner. I want something simple that won't upset my rumbling tummy. I Skype some friends and family and head to bed.

I'm up several times in the night and the next day I stay close to the hostel. By this point I don't want to leave Bangkok or the comforts of my hostel and I have no idea where my next stop should be. It's an overwhelming decision and after the difficulty of travelling in India I am more than wary of getting around any new country. Another day indoors feeling sick and I am ready for home. In the lobby, looking at maps and researching locations I meet an American couple who have been travelling for 2 years! They are great fun to talk to and have also just arrived from India. We go for dinner and I order some greens with rice. The next day I head to the doctor. The hospital lobby looks like a 5 star hotel. There's a chandelier and marble floors, suede chairs are set up around tables for people waiting, and there's a "Conceirge" to help you find what you need. I am sent with a form up to the third floor and the gastronomy department. I wait for less than 5 minutes for the doctor and I'm then ushered into a room where the doctor is seated at a desk. We discuss my symptoms and he asks some questions and then does an examination of my abdomen. When I told him I was in India his response is "Ah, India is very dirty, many people come here sick after India". He prescribes rest, and a clear liquid diet (ugh) for 2 days as well as some drugs. He then sets up some lab tests to check for parasites and samonella. I head down to the lobby and wait for a few minutes before I whip out my visa and pay in Canadian dollars! I grab a free water from the basket and wait for my prescriptions. I'm out the front doors a moment later and heading for the street food a few blocks away where they have great big bowls of noodle soup with clear broth (which he said I could eat). I decide to take it easy the rest of the day and drink lots of water.

My last day in Bangkok. I've finally decided I'm going to go to the beach for a few days before heading to Cambodia. I've applied online for my Cambodian visa and I am nervous but excited for some proper beach relaxation. I decide to sightsee and take a boat taxi to Wat Pho, one of the bigger temples in Bangkok. The temple complex is beautiful and huge. It's scorching outside and I take a few breaks in the shade. I've been good and I've had lots of water. This is my first Buddhist temple and I love the gold Buddha statues, the curving rooflines, the small garden waterfalls hidden in corners and the intricate carvings covering everything else. The large golden reclining Buddha is something to see and, with a florescent green robe provided by the temple, I wander slowly around the figure. In the feet, mother of pearl is inlaid.....it's beautiful. I take a short ferry across the river when I'm done and explore another Wat, or temple. I decide not to go in and take some pictures around the outside instead. It's really hot and I've been out and about for a long time on fluids only  so I grab the water taxi and head back towards home. I walk slowly back to the hostel, enjoying the sights of the streets of Bangkok. I enquire about the government bus, which is a third of the price of the tourist bus and am told I should be up and at the sky train at 6 am. Ya right! I decide to wake up at 6 and I'm out the door half an hour later. I arrive at the bus station, purchase my ticket and board. That easy. I actually can't believe how simple it all is. I've heard it's easy but after India I'm not quite ready to believe it, until now that is. I sit back and prepare to relax!

I loved Bangkok! It was clean and easy to get around. The street food smelled amazing and I realized on my bus trip to Koh Chang that it's also quiet....compared to India anyways. Not every car is honking and tuk tuk's aren't chasing you down to give you a lift. I am excited to come back and explore when I'm feeling better. I've lost over 3 kg in the last 5 days, and not in a good way, so I'm ready for some food and some sun and a little r and r.

Bangkok

The reclining Buddha at Wat pho

Funny, but I always pictured Buddha as a little fat bald man!

Wat Pho

India wrap up

I remember on my first outing, my first day in Mumbai. I had been wanting to see India for a long time and as we drove down the street in a taxi there were rickshaws and women riding motorbikes in saris weaving all over the road with everyone honking and I thought "Wow, I'm in India". These same things that were endearing on my first days turned into annoyances by week 7. That's right, 7 whole weeks in India, to the day!
India was an amazingly beautiful, colorful, unique country with extreme noises, smells, and tastes. I had a strong love hate relationship with it. On one hand I am so glad to have experienced it and on the other I'm so glad to be gone. I had extremely fun and easy times and I had extremely difficult times filled with stress and doubts. The people display the same amount of range. They can be kind and generous while also being pushy and rude. Everything is their business, even when it's not. It was a constant barrage of questions and greetings that left me exhausted by the end of the day. Rickshaw drivers stopped to ask where I was going even when I was clearly walking and shop owners offered that I "just look" at what they were selling, no matter what that was. It was constant horns, and shouting, and the smells are indescribable. And yet I met strangers who would help with directions, would offer me tips, or invite me to private celebrations. They wanted pictures with me and some were so enthralled they would just sit and stare. I am still in shock that I experienced India while at the same time being grateful to have escaped.

Some things I learned:
-Paneer: cubes of cheese that don't melt and have little flavour, used often in vegetarian dishes.
-Aloo: potatoe
-Veggie Korma is my favourite dish
-A dirty hole in the wall is the norm and doesn't mean food poisoning
-DON'T DRINK THE WATER! And open bottles in the shop to make sure they were sealed.
-Marsala: a mixture of spices
-Orange is India's national colour
-Don't hand over your money until rickshaw drivers have your change ready.....especially with big bills.
-When trying to cross the road don't wait for lights, inch your way across, between vehicles.
-Honking means "hey I'm here" or "move over I'm passing" not quite what it means in Canada....in fact on the back of most commercial vehicles they have a sign that says "horn OK please" as in honk!
-There are in fact a lot of Christians in India as well as Hindus, Sikhs, and Muslims. They all display their religion by having pictures of their gods in their homes or businesses.
-Loose clothing is much cooler than less clothing and definitely more appropriate.
-When haggling with rickshaw drivers, pick a price and keep repeating it....they will try to get more than triple but you can talk most of them down.
-Learn to litter, I know this is terrible but there are never garbage cans and when you ask for one they point at the street. So find a pile and add to it.
-Learn to squat and love it! Carry toilet paper and hand Sanitizer!
-Give up your seat to an old woman and you have a friend, and protector, for life.....or at least the rest of the ride.
-Never have expectations about the food you're getting because it's never what you want it to be.
-Smiling says a lot......smile and they are much friendlier.
-Sometimes they are blunt so don't take their insults at face value.......lol
-Enjoy every experience, even when it doesn't seem that enjoyable.
-Go with the flow......
-Trust your gut

While in India I took:
4 sleeper buses
1 semi sleeper bus
2 city buses
7 Sleeper class trains (pretty much the lowest class)
2 3AC trains
1 second class seated train
1 boat taxi
2 taxi rides
And numerous rickshaw rides.......

I learned so much more too but where do I begin. There are so many Indians that they've learned to be patient and compromise. They accept someone sitting in their seat by simply moving elsewhere. They will just as willingly give up their seat if someone in need comes by. They aren't rude or dispassionate with beggars (of which there are many varieties). They simply give if they can or shake their head if they can't. They become best friends with the person sitting next to them and yet they'll never see them again. I literally thought everyone knew each other at first. They push and shove but with no malice, they're helping each other get somewhere. One of my favorite experiences was on the city train in Mumbai. It was a busy Monday morning and I was taking the women's only car. As the train pulled up women pushed and shoved to get it. It looked extremely violent and I got right in there pushing my way on to the train. We all got on and all the women looked around and just laughed. It was such a community feeling. Even though they didn't know each other they accepted that we'd all looked like crazy fools and made light of it. It was a highlight for me. There were many of these moments...small moments in a big noisy place. I'm sure I've already forgotten many of them....but these small moments were what made me keep going, what helped me to continue experiencing, and what kept me in India for 7 weeks.

Thank you India for the experience of a lifetime, one I'm sure I won't soon forget!

Trains....

A man serving tea in a huge pot with a fire underneath! Oh and the train. Also, some beautiful orange flowering trees along the way.....

The Hindu Holy City