Varanasi

Varanasi is known as one of the, if not the dirtiest cities in India. This would be hard to do as I've seen some dirtiness I can't even describe! It's also the holiest place along the River Ganga to send a loved one after death. Indians from all over the country come to this city to not only die but to burn the bodies of their family members and turn the ashes over to the holy River. I had been warned that it's overwhelming and, at times, disturbing. I had booked a Guesthouse recommended by some other travellers as the accommodation is also supposed to be seedy. I arranged for an early morning pickup as my train arrived at 5am and I didn't want to have to negotiate the streets in the wee morning hours. I'm glad I did because the rickshaw we started in could only take us part of the way, the rest was on foot as the small old city streets were too narrow for a vehicle. I arrived and of course there's no room available at that time of morning. I took a seat overlooking the river and skyped my grandparents! With the time change the early morning time worked well! After an early breakfast on the rooftop restaurant while reading my book, I figured it was about time for check in. Nope, not ready. As I sit reading in the lobby a woman stops by and asks if I'd like to share my room. Usually I wouldn't mind but something held me back and I gave a non committal answer. She offered for me to come see it so I stood up but as I was about to follow her the manager called me over. He informed me that he wanted the guest to leave regardless of whether I wanted to share.  Thinking back on this he probably should have said this to her instead of telling her that I was the one waiting for her room. Anyways, the lady was already up the stairs so I sat back down. She stopped by a short time later and asked about sharing when I replied the hotel had asked me not to share she just shook her head. I felt badly for her, she'd over stayed her welcome, however I really wanted my room! She took so long checking out that I had lunch while I was waiting. I'm sure they could have arranged for me to have a different room but never the less I finally walked in the door at about 1:30. It wasn't bad. A cement floor, a bit dark....and I realized later, without a bathroom. The common bathroom, as it turns out, is down 2 flights of stairs just off the lobby. Highly inconvenient for a night pee-er! I changed and prepared to do some exploring for what was left of the afternoon. I opened the door and there, sitting on the railing right in front of my door was a monkey. I started to smile when it hissed at me! I quickly slammed the door. After waiting a few beats I opened the door again and this time when the monkey, who had moved a few feet away, heard the door it turned to move back and hissed. This continued for several door openings. The monkey would move away, I would open the door, it would turn and hiss. I waited till it was down at the end of the "hall" and this time the sucker ran right at me.......I decided this go around to watch out the window until he climbed down to the floor beneath. I peeked out and, when the coast was clear, made my escape. I saw his brown bum disappearing one  floor down, no doubt tormenting someone else. I went to the front desk to relay my concerns about this wayward monkey and my nightly trips to the toilet, among other exits from the room and the guy took out a gun! A shotgun! I watched in horror as he searched through a drawer for who knows what. I told the other man there "if you need a gun for that monkey than I am NOT staying in that room!" He assured me it was just for noise. They promised to give me a stick for that night and told me the monkeys aren't around at night, only around 6am...but don't worry "his boys" will be around checking for them! Oh Great! I feel so much better!

I finally left to explore Varanasi mid afternoon and started by leaving the hotel via the Ghats, which are steps leading into the river. I walked along and met a very nice man who owned a shop he wanted me to visit. I happened to feel like shopping so I went with him. He told me that when Goldie Hawn comes to visit her Guru she'll stop by his shop.....well if it's good enough for Goldie than it's good enough for me! :) Just as we began to climb the stairs leading to the street a holy man came over and got right in my face. This however, was not the disturbing part. The disturbing part was he was naked! I did not need him any closer in my personal space so palms up I said No and backed away. Crisis averted for now! We continued on to the shop where the man tried to tell me something about the holy man and no sex but I didn't understand.....it involved a long needle which was too much information.  The man showed me some beautiful scarves....all way overpriced. I tried explaining that I was a backpacker but he just said how cheap it was. I finally explained that I was travelling on rupees not Canadian dollars and he wished me well as I left the shop. I browsed the other shops along the main street and came upon one with a giant cow in the doorway! I mean, it took up half the store! I wandered around before heading back to the main Ghat where they hold their nightly river worship ceremony. There were people everywhere, and cows. As the sun set, chanting began and men stood on platforms performing a dance like ritual with candles and flames. I found out that only the holiest men can perform this ganga aarti. The naked holy men (there were several) hung about in the crowd and on "pedestals". I didn't stay for the whole hour but headed back for dinner on my rooftop cafe and a cautious walk to my room.

I woke the next day and after breakfast went exploring the Ghats. I started by going to Blue Lassi, a famous lassi shop. I enjoyed an apple lassi, though actually it wasn't my favourite but it was the flavour not the concoction. The man made it by hand using a metal jug and a large wooden stick, the original way to make lassis. It was very thick and delicious and I enjoyed hearing what other people ordered just as much as I enjoyed eating my apple dessert. Afterwards I walked towards the burning Ghats. I came upon the piles of wood first and here is where I saw the smoke and a pyre, or pile of wood with a body laying over top. I thought that when I saw it, it would be a beautiful ceremony but all I saw were many men sitting around talking and fire consuming a body. The body had been carefully wrapped in cloth but that's the first thing that burns, skin takes a lot longer. The human form; legs, arms, torso, even the profile of the face could be seen. It was a sad moment, but not one I could replay with my own family members. I continued and walked all the way to the farthest ghat for lunch. Along the way I saw laundry being done in the river and dried on the banks, I saw holy men sitting around naked, I saw people bathing (one man in starbright undies), and I saw wailing women grieving a death among many other things. The holy men who dot the Ghats build their homes here, or that's what it appears. They use cow poop to build small borders between their areas and tarps, blankets, and saris strung up on rope protect their homes from the elements. Many people I saw had shaved their heads and I'm not sure of the meaning. The holy men however, have long dreads piled on top of their heads. After lunch and the long walk back in the hot sun I decided to take a short break. I had a package to mail and I needed to gather my things. An hour later I headed to the post office to send my parcel. After over an hour and several mis guides, all sending me in different directions, I found the post office. A tiny shack with one man sitting inside. He helped me find a box and wrap my parcel in cloth which he sewed together with red nylon string and then sealed with hot wax. I then discovered he wasn't the post office at all,  he was the parcel wrapper guy! I walked across the street and began the proceedings. I was informed since I was after 4 pm there would be late charges along with the exorbant cost, which I didn't have enough cash for....and I didn't bring my credit card. So I had to go all the way back to my hostel, where I got lost again. I got my card, took out some money and got back to the post office an hour and a half later. The man told me I was 15 minutes away! Needless to say I was hot, tired and cranky. I was ready for bed. My train left the next morning at 5 am and I had to be up and gone by 3:30. Ugh.....

My alarm went off the next morning at 3 am after only 4 hours of sleep. Not fun at all. I got ready and went to leave only to find the way locked. The staff knew I was leaving and were even going to escort me if I went along the ghats though I chose to go a different way. With my bag on I climbed down the stairs to wake the poor desk clerk who sleeps on a table in the lobby. He asked me to wake the guy sleeping on a table by the door. So I trudged up the stairs and woke up guy #2 and he let me out. I found my way through the maze like streets of Varanasi. I came across some rickshaws in the centre of the street and one came barreling over. I told him my price was 150 rs and he wanted more. He finally agreed but when I got in he said so 250rs. I said no and he said "OK OK". As we were leaving he gave the soldier (there are 5000 soldiers protecting the holy city) a coin. He was turning around a traffic circle when I noticed him leaning all the way out of the rickshaw and looking behind him for someone, in fact he almost continued around the circle again before correcting the wheel. He ignored me when I asked what he was doing but I had a bad feeling that he was looking to make sure someone was following. I told him to stop the rickshaw and he wouldn't so I told him "STOP the rickshaw or I'll scream". He finally did and I grabbed my bag and got out. As I was marching back to the row of rickshaws in the main street he drove beside me "no passenger no passenger". Ya right. I jumped in another rickshaw where the man seemed more trustworthy and off I went. I arrived at 4:10 am, an hour before my train was to leave and made myself comfy on a wooden bench.