On the road again.....

I left my lovely little comfort place behind but felt okay as the "mini bus" winded it's way around the island and towards the ferry. A short trip across the ocean and we're driving on the mainland heading for the border. At last arriving at Koh Kong we take our bags and get our passports stamped at the Thai border before walking across a huge empty parking lot towards Cambodia. That's where everything changed. As you cross the final area at passport control a bunch of men come up and want to see your ticket, your name, where your from, what visa you need. I did not like all these strange men in my face and didn't feel the need to give out any information so I just said "yes I have a ticket". I told them my bus company and that was it. They were really annoyed. One man came over and tried to smooth things over and told me they work for the bus companies. I told him they should have uniforms or signs and shouldn't just demand a ticket. I had already gotten an e-visa so I went to wait in the line up while others got visas on arrival. I was stuck behind a family of four when a man came over and stood right beside the window. I told him that I had been waiting but when I wasn't looking he shoved a bunch of passports through the window. I then had to wait for 3 more people to go through. I was so irritated. Another man came up and pointed to the distance and said "the bus will pick you up there" I asked him to be more specific and he got really angry. I explained there were a lot of places over there and he stomped away. By now I was ready to turn around and forget Cambodia. When I finally had my visa stamped, I went to find the bus waiting spot and the guy working for the bus company wouldn't show me because I'd asked him to be specific earlier and told me I was on my own! I'm pretty sure that's not what he's paid for. I followed some other people from my bus who were going my way. After a few minutes we were told we would be taking a tuk tuk to the bus station instead. We got in and the man checked our tickets and then pocketed them. I demanded mine back and he argued but then all 3 of us argued for it and he finally handed them over. When we got to the bus station we had to get new tickets so without the ones we had we would have been paying for new ones. Nice scam they have. My bus was old and rickety and I had no Cambodian Riel so I hoped I had enough snacks. A young Cambodian sat beside me, I had the aisle seat which he clearly wanted, but I just stood up and let him in. He wouldn't stop jiggling and sitting with his legs spread as far as they would go. I finally showed him the half way mark on the seat and motioned that he should stay on his half. I was lucky though and he wasn't on the bus very long. As we drove I watched the scenery go by and felt a sense of dismay as things started to look more and more like India. I wasn't sure I could take that on again. The streets and roads were dusty, there were no sidewalks and garbage burned along the road. Hours and hours of this left me feeling defeated. I already didn't have a good impression of Cambodia after the border fiasco.

Hours later we arrive in Phnom Penh. My hostel said it would be $11US to get a tuk tuk from the bus station so I took out cash; the ATM's dispense US money and change under a dollar is given in Riel. I asked a tuk tuk driver standing nearby and he said $5 "it's very far". OK I answered thinking it's probably cheaper but way less than expected. As we drove I noticed what a nice city it was. Mind you, we were driving through the touristy centre. Everywhere I looked there were parks filled with locals sitting in groups, playing ball, walking, there was even a dance class taking place with about 30 young folks doing hip hop. It was awesome. I checked in and walked all the way up to the top floor. Right away I met 2 fabulous people, Charlee and Kevin, and we chatted away before finally heading down for some dinner, it was 9pm already. Things were looking up!

The next day my first priority was getting my visa for Vietnam. This is when I met Andy and Rachel from England. They are taking the same route as me and were also getting their visas. The best news we got that day was that you just leave it with the hostel and they'll do everything. Sweet! Now I had a whole day to do whatever I wanted! Charlee and decided to wander around town. We started by walking to the grand palace. It was extremely hot so on the way we stopped for a cold drink and some dessert. Unfortunately when we got to the palace it was closed. So we wandered around and had lunch, it cost $1! When we got back to the palace, we couldn't go in because you can't just cover yourself with a scarf, you have to wear sleeves. So........we took a tuk tuk back to the hostel. We hung out with Kevin, Andy and Rachel before heading for dinner at an Italian restaurant. I had a delicious veggie pizza and some great conversation.

The next day I went to S21 and the killing fields. From 1975 to 1979 Cambodia was run by Kmere Rouge. As part of their dictatorship they wanted only people who would live simply and follow their rules. 90% of educated people were killed. 1/3 of Cambodians were killed. They were tortured and killed and buried in mass graves. Babies were smashed against trees and thrown into graves with their mothers. Surprisingly graphic pictures were on display at S21, a former school and the prison where people were tortured and kept in tiny cells. The killing fields became the site of mass burials when they ran out of room at S21. To cover up the smell of the bodies, the Khmer Rouge poured chemicals into the graves, this also killed anyone who may not yet be dead.  It was a somber day and we were all quiet as we rode back to the hostel. When I went to pick up my passport later that day I find there is no visa, it hasn't been done. It wasn't that big a deal for me but Rachel and Andy are leaving the next morning. Tina, from our hostel, offered to send it to Siem Reap on the bus......they didn't go for that. Then I realize I'll be coming to the same hostel as them so I offer to bring them with me on Friday. Crisis averted! For dinner we wandered around before finding this delicious Cambodian BBQ place where everything was $2! I had a plate of shrimp with rice and veggies! And everyone else got a huge jug of beer for $1. It was a great time!

My last day in Phnom Penh and Charlee and I are going to the palace. We agree on a meeting time and I wait and wait.......she slept in. Another girl and I decide to go without her but when we get there they are closed! Seriously! We decide to get a tuk tuk to drive us around the town a bit and see some temples. Afterwards, back at the hostel, I grab some lunch and a bunch of us go to the pool. For $5 you can use this nice little pool and get a cocktail. It's just what I needed. We waste away the afternoon, lazing in the sun and meeting tons of other people. That night we are going for dinner at a restaurant that helps street kids by teaching them skills so they can stay off the street.  The food is delicious, although very expensive (for Cambodia). We finish off the evening by getting a massage at "Seeing Hands" where blind people have been trained to massage so they can earn an income. We head back to the hostel where I pack up so I'll be ready for my early morning to Siem Reap.

Charlee woke up early to see me off! A sad day, we had such a good time together, I wish we were going the same direction!