Istanbul, you've stolen my heart.....

I arrived at the Lviv airport with plenty of time to spare. No big surprise that the looooooong line at the airline counter was taking forever since everything seems to move that way in Ukraine. I had a few dollars to spend and planned on buying some snacks or possibly dinner at the airport. I was unlucky to find the duty free where the chocolate bars cost a fortune and a high end cafe. I ended up buying 2 milky ways which came to 8.40 Ukrainian Hryvnia. I gave the cashier 9 and he asked for change so I gave him another .50. He gave me nothing back. I asked him about it and he said he didn't give change and I said but you kept 1 hryvnia. No I didn't.....we argued for a moment about what I paid him but he finally gave it to me but said "it's not that much money". This is true but it asn't his to keep besides I thought it was weird that a cashier in an international duty free shop didn't have change. Afterwards I waited at the gate and read my book.....I watched as the time to board approached and passed, the time to take off approached and passed....finally we boarded a mere 30 minutes late. I boarded Pegasus Air and watched their hilarious video (definitely try to YouTube it) and promptly fell asleep. I had wanted to order some food and I woke up when she was about 5 rows ahead of me.....when I woke up again she was picking up garbage. Aw well.

I landed in Istanbul and was sent from the passport line to the visa line, from the visa line to the ATM. At the ATM I was charged 3% and I only needed 60 US or 45 Euros....of course bank machines don't give those denominations! I finally got my Visa for Turkey, which no one tells you that you need, got my passport stamped and retrieved my backpack.....thankfully much lighter thanks to my recent parcel send off. I was happily surprised to find a beautiful modern airport. I had expected something a bit more run down. I hopped on the shuttle and gawked as we passed modern westernized buildings. I wasn't the only one who had expected to find a run down city with shacks and dirty streets. This place was paradise with it's large highways and neon billboards. I grinned as I stared at Taksim square and all it's modern brilliance. The vernicular and tram were easily navigated and I found my hostel with ease in Sultanhamet, amongst the bright lights of shops, restaurants hotels and of course, McDonald's. Climbing the winding marble staircase I found a warm reception at the front desk. They welcomed me by name and showed me to my room. After a slight confusion and an overbooking I was given a room to myself. Ah, this is the life. I went out to explore and find some food. I was ravishing after the 2 hour commute from the airport and the delay. I ate a real Turkish donair as I wandered the street back to my hostel. I slept soundly and didn't even hear the call to prayer at dawn! I ate a delicious breakfast of bread, olives, cukes, and oranges with tea outside on the rooftop patio of my hostel. I couldn't wait to start exploring but first things first, I needed new shoes. I asked for some directions and I was sent just over the bridge to the karaköy tram stop and walked along the tram line. I was told I would find a travel store there. And did I ever. I think I found about 8 or so, and luckily a pair of Merrells that fit just right. As a bonus they gave me a choice of free socks, after some digging the salesman found a 2 pack in my size! Double bonus! I asked about a return policy and they phoned a friend who arrived promptly to be my translator. He stayed until I left! How cool is that! I took the tram back to the hostel to drop off my bags.  My next stop was the Grand Bazaar. I wanted to see what it was like so I could prepare myself for the real experience. What I found was nothing like I imagined. It was full of nicely dressed men selling their wares like in any other market. No dirt floors, no old hagglers, they weren't yelling in your face and there were virtually no crowds. I do have to tell you though that I made eye contact with a young scarf salesman as soon as I walked in and he pulled me into his shop, got me some apple tea and began to get to know me. I explained I wouldn't be buying anything but he said it was just Turkish hospitality to share tea. I finally escaped with his business card and a promise that I would think about taking him up on his offer for drinks later. After this same offer 4 more times I realized it was probably time to get out of there.

In the following days I returned to the Bazaar, saw the Spice Market,  walked to Istiklal Caddesi and Taksim square, I saw the Blue Mosque, the hagia Sophia, and the Galata tower. I ate some amazing food and yoghurt (which is so delicious) and made new friends. Michael from Edmonton (Go Alberta!),  John from Adelaide, Australia, Enrika from Italy, Clover from the US but working in China just to name a few. I learned a new card game and fell in love with Turkish delight, apple tea, and Turkish food. At first the Turkish men were also a delight and I felt flatterd by the attention but it soon gets old. I can't walk down the street without being bombarded with questions about where I'm from and how pretty my smile is. Did you know the blue eye is a special symbol in Turkey, it wards off the evil spirit and is supposed to represent the eye of Medusa....I have 2 (blue eyes that is) and while they might not notice right away, they definitely notice. I was followed by an umbrella salesman who told me it was customary to kiss when saying goodbye. I walked away very quickly. I was pulled into a shop to look at rugs and a whole day of sightseeing was planned for me.....they ship if anyone is interested. Everyone wants to see you later, show you around, or serve you tea. It seems delightful but it's always attached to a price tag or rather a sale.

I was also lucky enough to witness the 2 days of snow a year they get in Istanbul. Lucky me. And when I say snow I don't mean a sprinkle. The stuff flowed from the sky like water, blowing sideways and blinding pedestrians. I was wet and freezing 2 days in a row. And finally on the day it stopped I decided to wear my new shoes....I had been wearing them around the hostel to make sure they didn't cause blisters...,.they kept my feet so toasty and drywhile walking through meltung snow puddles and left over drifts.  I think I'm in love!

Istanbul looks nothing Taken 2 or any other middle Eastern Country. Though the landscape is dotted with mosques it is otherwise very westernized. The difference is that while there are men everywhere, there are no women to be seen. I don't think I've interacted once with a Turkish woman besides the 2 that work at my hostel. Regardless, people are always smiling and there is no rushing about from place to place. The atmosphere is laid back and friendly and it's so easy to meet new people.

I'm off to Cappadocia on the overnight bus but I am returning to Istanbul in a few days and will undoubtedly have more stories to tell.