I know I've fallen in love with some of the other places I've visited but Amed definitely is number 1. It was highly recommended by locals and as we drove down a desolate road dotted with restaurants in shacks and people sleeping on platforms by the road I couldnt believe this was it. Then I walked into my Guesthouse....Giria Giri Shanti Bungalows and I was in heaven. Jim took my bags to my room and the owner Lisolette showed me the small beautiful complex built in a garden and gave me some recommendations for dinner and activities. Since they only had one night available I had to move the next day and she offered to drive me around and find a place. They provided free drinks and free rides around the beach area. Amed is actually the area and Jemaluk is the beach/town. First thing I did was go out to snorkel....this is where I met Harry, a 9 year old Australian, on vacation. He was obviously very bored and started chatting with me. Once I was in the water he ran out to join me. He showed me some cool fish and I watched as he collected garbage to throw out later. I would be seeing quite a bit of Harry in the coming days, but for now I went off on my own to relax and get dinner. I met a local guy on the way who offered me a ride. Usually I would say no, and I did, but he was insistent. Lise had told me it was OK and they are just very kind so I took the ride. He wanted me to come watch his band and insisted he come back and pick me up but I weaseled my way out. I wanted a relaxing evening in my lovely room overlooking the gardens. After my delicious dinner I made a new friend. Made (pronounced Maddie) stopped to ask me a question and I ended up quizing him about his island, culture, and beach! He was wonderful and answered all my questions. As I was leaving he told me to call him Susu, which really confused me, but he just explained that there are a lot of Mades. Well I later found out that in Bali they only have four names. The oldest child, boy or girl, is named Wayan, the second is Made, the third is Nyoman, and the fourth is Ketut. If a fifth child is born you start back with name number one. So it is very true that I met a lot of Mades during my stay in Amed! Made Susu was one reason I really loved Amed, he was genuinly kind and funny and showed me just a glimpse of the beautiful Balinese culture. Later, back at my bungalow I met 3 Scottish girls who were so excited to hear about my travels to their very own country!
The next morning I found a bungalow across the street for Sinead and I, just a few steps from the beach and humoungous! I thought there was a pool attached but it turns out it was next door at the place with the exact same name! Not at all confusing! As soon as Sinead arrived we grabbed snorkel gear and headed to the beach. Two of the guys working at 3 brothers bungalows, our resort (1 & 2...there are 3....in a row) joined us and found us a sea turtle. The snorkling was amazing. Fish of every colour, bright indigo blue starfish with a span, from tip to tip, of a foot and a half. Some of the fish seemed to glow with the brightness of their colours. We didn't stay out long though as tiny jelly fish, so small you couldn't see them, zapped us....making it just slightly uncomfortable. We spent the rest of the day at the pool next door. Just before leaving a guy jumped in the pool wearing what I assumed to be his underwear as they were tight and covered in french Macaroons. We were just getting ready for dinner when this same guy, Arend from Amsterdam who genuinly thinks he's wearing swim shorts, strolled over looking for the wifi password. He decided to join us for dinner and it was the start of an exciting few days with good friends. After dinner and a taste of the local spirits Arend, Sinead, and I decided to go lay on the beach to get a better look at the stars. Once on the rocky shore we met Wayan, who worked at our hotel, and 2 other guests, playing the guitar and singing. Laying under a huge canopy of stars next to the ocean I was serenaded by Wayan and Sinead (who has an amazing voice and her own songs) while waves lapped the shore a few feet away. It was a lovely way to end the night.
The next morning the three of us, Arend, Sinead, and I, gathered our snorkel gear and climbed on Arend's scooter for a trip to the Japanese shipwreck. After getting a little lost, finding buddha, and getting some broken directions we were at the beach. I have only snorkled with natural surroundings and it was breathtaking to swim over the shipwreck as huge schools of fish circled within it and the floor of the ocean dropped off just beyond. It felt surreal. Soon we were back on the bike and headed to Jemeluk Bay, a white sand beach amongst the black sand of the other bays. Since it was just the beach next to ours Sinead decided to walk back after lunch. Arend and I went in with our snorkels and found a beautiful underwater fish haven. The beach runs into the ocean and almost immediately turns to coral where fish dart in and out of crevices and colorful plankton wave in the ripples. Just beyond the ocean floor drops and it's about 3 meters of clear water and white sand where schools of fish will come right up to you. Amazing! We finally got back and straight to the pool we went! I decided to do one last snorkel trip on our own beach and Wayan decided to join me. By this point my snorkel wasn't working, though I think it was more me being tired than the equipment. Sinead and I decided to do a little photoshoot in the infinity pool with the sun setting behind us, our photographer Arend, was a really good sport about doing everything twice! Once on Sinead's camera and then again on mine! Arend, Sinead and I went out for a delicious dinner before heading out to meet the Scottish girls, and a bunch of locals we'd befriended at a Reggae Place. A night of dance competitions ensued; Arend easily won with his Euro dance imitations! To top off the night why not have a pool party! We swam in the pool, competing against each other in a variety of ways, much to the dismay of the other guests I'm sure! And then before I knew it my time in Amed was at an end and I had to say goodbye to not only many new friends but to a beautiful town that offers kindness to the strangers that flit in and out. I could easily have stayed but knew that I wanted to see a little more of Bali before leaving. And it's always better to leave on a high note....there's no way the previous day could be topped! Even with this thought in my head it felt a little like heartbreak as we drove away from this area filled with beautiful people. I feel an immense connection to this small beach! Until next time.......
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