A monkey attacks!

Sunset......

Blue Lassi

Last stop: Kolkata

Little did I know as I sat there at 4 am that my train would be 3 hours late. So much for going straight to sleep. I finally got on at 8:15 only to find someone in my bed. I bluntly informed him he was in my seat and headed up to my upper bunk. I got myself comfy and fell asleep. A couple of hours later I was awaken to make my lunch order so I got up to wait for my rice biryani. I realized then that I was sitting with some of the most disgusting men in India. First of all they were smoking which isn't allowed on Indian trains. Secondly, they were chewing tobacco and subsequently making gutteral throat clearing noises (known to me as hucking a loogi (sp?)) And spitting out the window, constantly. Thirdly, they were filthy. One guys feet were caked with mud and dry skin that left dirt behind wherever he lay. Gross.

My day on the train was spent mostly sleeping or watching movies or reading my book on my upper bunk. It was miserably hot though so I came down a few times for "fresh" air. I started to feel sick late afternoon and at the same time discovered my train was running 5 hours late. Awesome! I finally threw up and promptly fell asleep before arriving in Kolkata. Five hours late, tired, hot and sick I found my way to the tuk tuk drivers I'd been informed weren't there before finding one who gave me a decent price. He claimed to know the way but didn't which worked out because he passed the original place I'd wanted to stay. I got out there and found my way to my cubicle room which is just what it sounds like. A dorm room with privacy, sort of. The walls don't go to the ceiling so you can still hear others but there's walls. After a terrible sleep with many jaunts to the toilet I was up and getting ready for the airport.

Kolkata has to have one of the worst airports I've been to. I arrived early and waited till the 3 hours they'd emailed me to be there for. When the time was up I searched for the Air Asia counter but there wasn't one. Turns out they were using Air India counters but with no signage. I started to check in only to find out I had to have my bag checked by x-ray. I went over and did that and took it back. Once in immigration I was asked if I'd filled out the form. Which form? I filled that out and went through security where I received a tag on my bag showing it had been checked. How else is my bag getting through security? The gate for my flight wasn't announced until takeoff time. When we finally started boarding we needed to show our bag to another security guard standing inside the gate. I had bought a water and put it in a reusable shopping bag which she ripped off my shoulder because it had no tag. I informed her, not too nicely either, that I'd bought a water. I couldn't wait to get out! Only the flight didn't get any better. Passengers were talking on the phone during takeoff and moving seats. I sat with a barf bag in my lap and ran to the bathroom as soon as the seatbelt sign went off. When I returned an Indian man had taken one of the seats in my empty row and several times spoke loudly to a passing friend as I was sleeping. I was not too polite to him about that.

But, after a short 2 hours, we arrived in Bangkok......time for a new adventure!

Varanasi

Varanasi is known as one of the, if not the dirtiest cities in India. This would be hard to do as I've seen some dirtiness I can't even describe! It's also the holiest place along the River Ganga to send a loved one after death. Indians from all over the country come to this city to not only die but to burn the bodies of their family members and turn the ashes over to the holy River. I had been warned that it's overwhelming and, at times, disturbing. I had booked a Guesthouse recommended by some other travellers as the accommodation is also supposed to be seedy. I arranged for an early morning pickup as my train arrived at 5am and I didn't want to have to negotiate the streets in the wee morning hours. I'm glad I did because the rickshaw we started in could only take us part of the way, the rest was on foot as the small old city streets were too narrow for a vehicle. I arrived and of course there's no room available at that time of morning. I took a seat overlooking the river and skyped my grandparents! With the time change the early morning time worked well! After an early breakfast on the rooftop restaurant while reading my book, I figured it was about time for check in. Nope, not ready. As I sit reading in the lobby a woman stops by and asks if I'd like to share my room. Usually I wouldn't mind but something held me back and I gave a non committal answer. She offered for me to come see it so I stood up but as I was about to follow her the manager called me over. He informed me that he wanted the guest to leave regardless of whether I wanted to share.  Thinking back on this he probably should have said this to her instead of telling her that I was the one waiting for her room. Anyways, the lady was already up the stairs so I sat back down. She stopped by a short time later and asked about sharing when I replied the hotel had asked me not to share she just shook her head. I felt badly for her, she'd over stayed her welcome, however I really wanted my room! She took so long checking out that I had lunch while I was waiting. I'm sure they could have arranged for me to have a different room but never the less I finally walked in the door at about 1:30. It wasn't bad. A cement floor, a bit dark....and I realized later, without a bathroom. The common bathroom, as it turns out, is down 2 flights of stairs just off the lobby. Highly inconvenient for a night pee-er! I changed and prepared to do some exploring for what was left of the afternoon. I opened the door and there, sitting on the railing right in front of my door was a monkey. I started to smile when it hissed at me! I quickly slammed the door. After waiting a few beats I opened the door again and this time when the monkey, who had moved a few feet away, heard the door it turned to move back and hissed. This continued for several door openings. The monkey would move away, I would open the door, it would turn and hiss. I waited till it was down at the end of the "hall" and this time the sucker ran right at me.......I decided this go around to watch out the window until he climbed down to the floor beneath. I peeked out and, when the coast was clear, made my escape. I saw his brown bum disappearing one  floor down, no doubt tormenting someone else. I went to the front desk to relay my concerns about this wayward monkey and my nightly trips to the toilet, among other exits from the room and the guy took out a gun! A shotgun! I watched in horror as he searched through a drawer for who knows what. I told the other man there "if you need a gun for that monkey than I am NOT staying in that room!" He assured me it was just for noise. They promised to give me a stick for that night and told me the monkeys aren't around at night, only around 6am...but don't worry "his boys" will be around checking for them! Oh Great! I feel so much better!

I finally left to explore Varanasi mid afternoon and started by leaving the hotel via the Ghats, which are steps leading into the river. I walked along and met a very nice man who owned a shop he wanted me to visit. I happened to feel like shopping so I went with him. He told me that when Goldie Hawn comes to visit her Guru she'll stop by his shop.....well if it's good enough for Goldie than it's good enough for me! :) Just as we began to climb the stairs leading to the street a holy man came over and got right in my face. This however, was not the disturbing part. The disturbing part was he was naked! I did not need him any closer in my personal space so palms up I said No and backed away. Crisis averted for now! We continued on to the shop where the man tried to tell me something about the holy man and no sex but I didn't understand.....it involved a long needle which was too much information.  The man showed me some beautiful scarves....all way overpriced. I tried explaining that I was a backpacker but he just said how cheap it was. I finally explained that I was travelling on rupees not Canadian dollars and he wished me well as I left the shop. I browsed the other shops along the main street and came upon one with a giant cow in the doorway! I mean, it took up half the store! I wandered around before heading back to the main Ghat where they hold their nightly river worship ceremony. There were people everywhere, and cows. As the sun set, chanting began and men stood on platforms performing a dance like ritual with candles and flames. I found out that only the holiest men can perform this ganga aarti. The naked holy men (there were several) hung about in the crowd and on "pedestals". I didn't stay for the whole hour but headed back for dinner on my rooftop cafe and a cautious walk to my room.

I woke the next day and after breakfast went exploring the Ghats. I started by going to Blue Lassi, a famous lassi shop. I enjoyed an apple lassi, though actually it wasn't my favourite but it was the flavour not the concoction. The man made it by hand using a metal jug and a large wooden stick, the original way to make lassis. It was very thick and delicious and I enjoyed hearing what other people ordered just as much as I enjoyed eating my apple dessert. Afterwards I walked towards the burning Ghats. I came upon the piles of wood first and here is where I saw the smoke and a pyre, or pile of wood with a body laying over top. I thought that when I saw it, it would be a beautiful ceremony but all I saw were many men sitting around talking and fire consuming a body. The body had been carefully wrapped in cloth but that's the first thing that burns, skin takes a lot longer. The human form; legs, arms, torso, even the profile of the face could be seen. It was a sad moment, but not one I could replay with my own family members. I continued and walked all the way to the farthest ghat for lunch. Along the way I saw laundry being done in the river and dried on the banks, I saw holy men sitting around naked, I saw people bathing (one man in starbright undies), and I saw wailing women grieving a death among many other things. The holy men who dot the Ghats build their homes here, or that's what it appears. They use cow poop to build small borders between their areas and tarps, blankets, and saris strung up on rope protect their homes from the elements. Many people I saw had shaved their heads and I'm not sure of the meaning. The holy men however, have long dreads piled on top of their heads. After lunch and the long walk back in the hot sun I decided to take a short break. I had a package to mail and I needed to gather my things. An hour later I headed to the post office to send my parcel. After over an hour and several mis guides, all sending me in different directions, I found the post office. A tiny shack with one man sitting inside. He helped me find a box and wrap my parcel in cloth which he sewed together with red nylon string and then sealed with hot wax. I then discovered he wasn't the post office at all,  he was the parcel wrapper guy! I walked across the street and began the proceedings. I was informed since I was after 4 pm there would be late charges along with the exorbant cost, which I didn't have enough cash for....and I didn't bring my credit card. So I had to go all the way back to my hostel, where I got lost again. I got my card, took out some money and got back to the post office an hour and a half later. The man told me I was 15 minutes away! Needless to say I was hot, tired and cranky. I was ready for bed. My train left the next morning at 5 am and I had to be up and gone by 3:30. Ugh.....

My alarm went off the next morning at 3 am after only 4 hours of sleep. Not fun at all. I got ready and went to leave only to find the way locked. The staff knew I was leaving and were even going to escort me if I went along the ghats though I chose to go a different way. With my bag on I climbed down the stairs to wake the poor desk clerk who sleeps on a table in the lobby. He asked me to wake the guy sleeping on a table by the door. So I trudged up the stairs and woke up guy #2 and he let me out. I found my way through the maze like streets of Varanasi. I came across some rickshaws in the centre of the street and one came barreling over. I told him my price was 150 rs and he wanted more. He finally agreed but when I got in he said so 250rs. I said no and he said "OK OK". As we were leaving he gave the soldier (there are 5000 soldiers protecting the holy city) a coin. He was turning around a traffic circle when I noticed him leaning all the way out of the rickshaw and looking behind him for someone, in fact he almost continued around the circle again before correcting the wheel. He ignored me when I asked what he was doing but I had a bad feeling that he was looking to make sure someone was following. I told him to stop the rickshaw and he wouldn't so I told him "STOP the rickshaw or I'll scream". He finally did and I grabbed my bag and got out. As I was marching back to the row of rickshaws in the main street he drove beside me "no passenger no passenger". Ya right. I jumped in another rickshaw where the man seemed more trustworthy and off I went. I arrived at 4:10 am, an hour before my train was to leave and made myself comfy on a wooden bench.

All the way to Agra....

Leaving Ramnagar we caught our 10 pm train to Delhi. We were meant to arrive at 5 am and had our alarm clocks all set but we miraculously arrived an hour early! Thankfully one of the people in our section woke me up to tell me. We crammed our stuff in our bags and headed to another train station for our 7 am train to Agra. We had to haggle with several drivers before one would agree to a fair price. He took us to his rickshaw where someone was sleeping. We got in and so did this sleeping passenger. I asked who he was and kept saying he was a friend. I told the driver that it was not ok and he brushed me off, I argued for awhile and then asked if there would be a discount....of course not. So I said no thank you and we got out of the vehicle and found another. It's a huge scam in Delhi and women travellers are warned never to drive with 2 men in the vehicle. We safely arrived at the new station and there was a huge outdoor cafe which was open so we stopped to have some breakfast. We caught our train a couple of hours later and crammed into the 3 person seats. A woman's husband didn't  want her sitting on the inside and moved her the few rows back to sit beside us, and we had actually moved over to someone else's seat (he wasn't staying). But that's how it goes in India, people just take what's available.....moral: get there early! We arrived in Agra, booked our ticket back to Delhi for the next day and started out for our hotel. We got a prepaid taxi even though the directions sounded walkable. A tuk tuk driver (not minding his own business of course) told us our hotel had changed its name but I knew it hadn't and corrected him. We got in a tuk tuk and wouldn't you know that it was the same driver. He took us to the address I'd gotten online and it wasn't our hotel. I read him the directions and he said "ah see I told you the name had changed" which wasn't actually true. When we arrived we discovered that our hotel was IN another hotel. For some reason the driver would not let it go and followed us into the lobby to tell us it was our fault for getting the address wrong. I discovered he didn't even want more money. I finally asked him what he was still doing there and he wanted to know if we wanted a city tour! Ya right, we just arrived exhausted and he's arguing over something that has nothing to do with us! We discovered later that the hostel we booked doesn't actually exist and the owner takes bookings and then sends them to the hotel we were at. We pay more and don't have an included breakfast. He also forgot to mention the 10% that I prepaid online. When I went down that evening to correct the cost with my deposit the owners, after arguing with me, called the owner of the "hostel" who argued on the phone with me. When he asked "final words, what should I do?" I told him he shouldn't use a hostel name that doesn't exist. He tried to tell me it's very common in Europe but I know that's not true! So annoying!

After checking in and having some lunch Alex wanted to do some planning and told me to go on to the Taj without her.....I said "so you came all the way to Agra and you're not gong to see the Taj Mahal? Why didn't you just leave from Delhi?" After that she thought about it and came with me. We walked a few blocks and bought our exorbant ticket price. For some background we paid 750 rs and Indians pay 20 rs.....terrible! We caught a free shuttle car the 5 minutes down the road and entered the complex. The first glimpse I had was of the rooftops and then when we walked in we saw 4 gates.....through the north one you could see the Taj Mahal! It was amazing. As we walked in through the entry way I couldn't get over the sheer size of it. It was massive,  much bigger than I expected. Most pictures you see are taken halfway through the gardens in front of the closest fountain but the area is much larger. People looked like tiny ants beside it, barely hiding any of the building. We winded our way through the fountains and gardens and up to the "deck" area where you must remove your shoes. On either side of the giant white marble tomb are smaller tombs in a sandstone which are just as beautiful. We entered the inside of the Taj and it is so small! An inner room holds a fenced off area with what looks like a small coffin in the centre and then an outer "hallway" circles around it with smallish rooms at each section forming a hexagon like shape. The crowd inside was unbelievable and Indians really don't know how to form a line or follow one either. At one point a woman pinched me in the side to get me to move....I'm not sure where since it was packed in front of me. I turned around and firmly told her not to touch me but she continued to push me in the back with her hand. I finally pushed back (against her hand, I didn't turn around and shove her though that would have been interesting!) and told her once again not to touch me. That seemed to do the trick. I couldn't wait to get out of there though!

The Taj Mahal is a beautiful complex on the river with a huge garden...it was so lovely to walk through and enjoy the birds and chipmunks.....we took the side way out and were practically alone. It was extremely hot so we got a shuttle back and went to our hotel. That night I went to the rooftop of the hotel to watch the sunset over the Taj Mahal. I could see a shape on the building next door which looked like a head so I figured someone else was watching the sunset too.....it turns out that someone was a monkey! It sat watching the sun setting over Agra! I watched some boys flying a kite as well and they would whistle and blow me kisses when I looked over! Haha

That night we stayed in and went to bed early. We woke up and headed to the train station by 8. We got our tickets and waited and waited and waited. Our train was almost 2 hours late! We got on and relaxed in sleeper class. Our train was 3 hours late arriving in Delhi! I was meant to meet Avantika, who I'd met in Kerala, so I phoned her and we arranged a new time. We got to my hotel where Alex was going to hang out for the day before her late night train. When we arrived there was a sign sayng no visitors and when she tried to come up to my room we had to argue. We told him she was just staying for a minute and then I left her there. I had a lovely time with Avantika. We had a cold drink and then went to the Gateway to India and saw the Parliament buildings. We got along so well I wish we lived closer! I headed back around 7 pm and Alex was just packing her stuff. She had paid 200 rs to stay for the day which made me feel better! We grabbed dinner and I took her to the train where we said our goodbyes. It was so nice having someone to travel with but I'm excited about my last few days in India!

I got to my hotel and up I went to sleep and then to catch my train to Varanasi in the late morning! Finally, a sleep in!

Taj Mahal